Whole-House Fan Installation and Repair in Las Vegas, NV

The rule is simple: run the fan only when it is cooler outside than inside. Here that means:

• Spring and fall. The fan's best seasons. Days are warm, evenings cool off fast, and many households can leave the air conditioner off for weeks.
• Summer nights and early mornings. Useful once the outdoor temperature drops below the indoor temperature. In midsummer that may not happen until late at night, and on the hottest nights it may not happen at all.
• Summer afternoons. Not useful. Pulling 105°F air through the house only heats it. Keep the windows shut and let the air conditioner work.

There are other times to leave it off. The fan brings in whatever is outside, unfiltered, so skip it when the wind is carrying dust, when wildfire smoke is in the valley, or when pollen bothers someone in the house. On humid monsoon evenings it pulls that moisture indoors, and the air conditioner then has to remove it. Treat the fan as a partner that shortens the season for your central air conditioner, not as a replacement for it.

A good installation comes down to four things.

1. Airflow. Fans are rated in cubic feet per minute. We match the rating to the size of the house and how quickly you want the air changed. Multi-speed models run on high to flush heat, then low and quiet overnight.
2. Attic vent area. Air has to leave the attic as fast as the fan delivers it. Too little vent area chokes the fan, raises noise and can push dusty attic air back into the house. We measure the existing vents and add more where needed.
3. Fan style. Traditional units mount directly in the ceiling behind louvers. Newer designs hang the fan in the attic at the end of a short insulated duct, with a damper at the ceiling. They are much quieter and seal better when off.
4. Power and controls. The fan needs a suitable circuit and a wall control. A timer is worth having, so the fan shuts itself off after you are asleep.

One safety rule comes before the rest: open the windows before switching the fan on. In a closed house the fan creates strong suction that can pull exhaust gases, including carbon monoxide, back down the flue of a gas water heater or furnace.

These are simple machines, and most problems trace to a few parts. On belt-driven models a worn or loose belt squeals or slips and the blades turn slowly. Motors fail from heat and dust, or the motor's capacitor does, leaving a fan that hums without starting. Louvers and dampers stick open or closed. Switches, timers and speed controls wear out. Rattles and vibration usually mean loose mounting or a bent blade.

Repair is often the sensible choice. An old direct-mount fan that roars, shakes the ceiling and leaks air through its louvers when it is off is a good candidate for replacement with a quieter ducted model, because that leaky opening works against your air conditioner and heater every month the fan sits idle. Your own upkeep is light: keep the attic vents clear, vacuum dust from the grille or louvers, and in winter make sure the damper closes fully or fit an insulated cover.

Before recommending a fan we look at the attic: how much room there is, how it is vented, where the joists and ducts run, and where a switch can go. Then we tell you which size and style fits and what, if anything, has to change in the attic first. Existing fans of any make or model can be repaired or swapped out by our licensed technicians. We cover Las Vegas and nearby Clark County communities. Call 702-497-0888 to set a time.